Saturday, 5 May 2018

Weathering 42106

I’ve long wanted era-specific motive power to haul my Southern Aurora set, as well as something that wouldn’t look out of place on the goods lines in Sydney. So last weekend I ordered 42106 from Australian Modeller and it turned up on Monday. So as to not just go out on a whim and buy whatever I like, I justified this purchase to myself with the commitment to weather it before I could get too attached to the clean livery look. And with my wife on night shift this weekend it was the perfect opportunity to swap power tools for the quieter paint and air brushes!


Throughout the next few hundred words, I’ve used the crushed pastel weathering method I’ve referred to previously for the GLX, PCC and WHX hoppers. Follow the links for further info.

I’m an instructions and pictures kind of guy and so in case it benefits anyone else out there, here’s the list I followed over the past few days. I started masking on Friday and finished re-assembling the loco after lunch today (Sunday), so all up it didn't take too long, especially considering that there's a lot of 'firsts' to learn in this process.

·        Remove body from chassis.
·        Mask windscreens, headlight, marker light and porthole windows.
·        Remove bogie sideframes from bogies. Add to items to be sprayed black.
·        Remove couplers, store in safe place.
·        Mask electricals and staff exchanger on chassis.
·        Mask yellow treads and yellow warning ends on buffer beams.
·        Dullcote body.
·        Spray bogie sideframes Krylon ultra matt black.
·        Spray chassis Krylon ultra matt black
·        Remove masking from yellow treads of chassis and dullcote.
·        Mask grills on body.
·        Spray/paint grills Krylon ultra matt black.
·        Weather body with overall light grey to fade paintwork. Seal with iso. 
·        Weather body with patches of black/brown road grime. Seal with iso.
·        Weather chassis with grey brown. Repeat as necessary. Seal with iso.
·        Weather fuel tank area to specific pattern.
·        Weather tops of both buffer beams a light, dirt brown. Iso.
·        Using a light grey pastel pencil, draw impact circle on both buffer beams.
·        Brush light coat of both black over buffer beams. Iso.
·        Using airbrush, spray model with dullcote (3 parts thinner, 1 part dullcote). Leave for 1 hour to set.
·        Clean wheels using iso and cotton buds, and a 9v battery to rotate the wheels.
·        Re-install couplers – replace with Kadee 158’s if desired.
·        Re-attach bogie sideframes to bogies.
·        Replace body on chassis – remember to re-attach headlight connection.
·        Remove maskol from windscreens, portholes, headlines and marker lights.
  





And after all that – voila!



A few observations:

Reference photos are a must, and I spent most of the weeknights last week trawling through photo groups on Facebook and in my own library to find examples from multiple angles. I ended up with about 10 photos from between 1978-1983.

Maskol was easier to use than I expected. I was impressed that when I went to remove it the whole gloop would stay in tact, much as if you were stretching a latex glove. This allowed me to carefully pull from the right angle on the windows with mirrors or windscreen wipers, to coax the maskol off from underneath it, much like when you finally get the hang of removing one of those 3M adhesive picture mounts from a wall.

Masking the loco body with tape so that I could paint the grills with the Krylon black left a bit of a residue on the dullcote and paintwork which I had to clean off with iso and a cotton bud. I re-applied the weathering over this area on both sides of the body and while it looks ok, it’s not the smooth, consistent pattern I was going for. Next time, I’ll use paper to mask this and hold it on with as little tape as possible.

As the loco isn’t fitted with DCC yet, I was struggling to figure out how to get the wheels to turn so I could clean them as Rozelle Street is solely DCC. After a quick google I found a book by Model Rail’s George Dent which did the trick; press a 9v battery onto the contact wheels to ‘jog’ them forward so that you can clean the next bit. It worked a treat and I now have clean wheels, ready to go for when I next get to run the loco.

I’d read in other loco modelling forums that using Dullcote from an aerosol can to seal weathering could ‘blow’ the powder away because the pressure is too high. So after asking around I settled on buying some Testors Dullcote laquer and laquer thinner mixed to a ratio of 3 parts thinner, 1 part dullcote and applied it at 20psi with the airbrush. The airbrush needs the thinner/cleaner fluid put through it afterwards as the dullcote in this form is quite viscous. After applying, I left the model to dry for an hour outside (18 degrees) and apart from a mild toning down of the weathering scheme it seems to have done the job well. If I weather again I'll go a little stronger with the colour scheme to compensate for this tone down effect.

So there you have it - 42106 is back at Rozelle Street looking a little dirtier, but still schmick enough to be a running contender for pole position on the outbound Southern Aurora.


Now that I’ve bit the bullet and successfully weathered a loco without ruining it, I’m keen to do another. The X200 looks like it’d be a good next step…

Til next time,
Ben

Monday, 16 April 2018

Chullora Industrial

Things have been a bit quiet here since my last post but I’m happy to report that I’ve finally progressed plans for a new layout. It's a bit of a long post today, so  without further ado here's the plan as it currently stands:


On the left is the traverser from my previous NSW country layout. The new layout module measure 155cm x 45cm. Track will be Code 70 with Peco Code 75 turnouts provided that I can make that combination compatible. Viewing will be from the bottom of the picture, with the backscene at the top. The working title is "Chullora Industrial," but as this is more of a layout running metropolitan trip trains to sidings on one of the goods lines I may tweak the name in future to more comprehensively represent the influence that the Sandown line and Flemington fruit sidings have had on this design.

An exercise I find useful in determining what design is going to make me happy in a future layout is to write down what I want out of that layout. Here's my "must have's":

  • a run-around
  • trains go to a destination.
  • a level crossing
  • run bigger diesels
  • 3 sidings
  • somewhere to run cement stock
  • somewhere to run wheat stock
  • run electric stock
  • able to run 20-40 minutes' of operation time.
  • transportable
  • one-piece
  • adaptable into a future layout
As much as I would've liked to incorporate electric stock or even a worker's platform for a two-car suburban electric to run in to mix things up, I ran into the risk of overcrowding the scene. Perhaps I can revisit that in future or can invest in a diesel railmotor bristling with camera-toting gunzels. I can't exactly run wheat trains into here, but there's no reason a trip train to a mill or industrial bakery on a trailing turnout further offstage couldn't draw forward into the layout's run around siding, and change ends before heading back out to Enfield/Clyde/Rozelle for marshalling.

The cement sidings on the bottom right of the plan allow for cement hoppers to be brought in and exchanged, as well as open wagons covered with tarpaulins, representing bagged loads of cement. Something like this tarped BDY is what I'm looking to represent and run into those sidings:


Image credit: Auscision models

The other industry is a freight forwarding/logistics/general traffic destination. I plan that those sidings will mainly see louvred vans and box cars, but also the McWilliams' wine tanker I have stashed away to build. The scenery will be a hard stand with a large awning coming off the warehouse, similar to the fruit sidings at Flemington.

I want to take it out to exhibitions again, hence the transportable requirement. I'm also going to build this one as a shadow-box layout, rather than as a pelmet design as on Rozelle Street. The reason being is that one of the frustrations of exhibiting Rozelle Street is the elaborate game of Tetris we have to play to arrange the fiddle yard, pelment, and backscene in the car boot every time the layout goes somewhere. That's before I work out where to put the trains!

In short, no, this design does not accommodate a V set. I've made it pretty clear here just how much I wish that were possible, but that is an itch that will need to be scratched at a later date, on a railway built in a house I don’t need to up stumps and move out of at the end of a contract. But rather than sink a couple of hundred dollars into building a V-set capable behemoth that is both constrained by currently available space and limited in utility if (when) we move house again, I can re-use the traverser I built two layouts ago which in turn provides staging to achieve the instant-on concept of design that has provided many hours of enjoyment in Rozelle Street.
I have to give credit to UK modeller Chris Gilbert for this design, as it's very much influenced by watching several videos of his layout "North Haston" on YouTube. Below is an example of the kind of shunting he does at exhibitions. {Edit: That he did at exhibitions - the layout has since been sold]. I'm not planning on going to many exhibitions with this layout, but I found it enjoyable watching this one. Plus he's using cement wagons. Not going to lie - I'm blatantly plagiarising this design feature almost down to the track plan.


The plan has also brought me to considering layout height again. My country NSW layout in 2014 had a track height of 140cm, and Rozelle Street has a track height of 124cm, shown below. I’ve explained my reasoning for each in previous posts, but going forward I’m going to stick with the 124cm height, despite the height of the pelmet dropping by 5cm lower than on Rozelle Street as depicted here:



So there you have it. Plans for achievable layout number 2.

Work has me away a lot between now until about September, so it remains to be seen how quickly this will be built. Building Rozelle Street showed me that I go from bare boards to an operating layout with all of the bugs ironed out in less than 6 months, and to be honest, I want to replicate that speed of construction with this layout. We'll see how we go.

Thanks for making it this far, and by all means, if you can see a glaring roadblock that I've missed or have a suggestion for an amendment to the track plan to add interest, please feel free to add a comment below. We're all here to learn.

Cheers for now,
Ben

Tuesday, 6 March 2018

Handy tips - storage boxes

Love them or hate them, the Auscision storage boxes have changed the way the vast majority of modellers store and transport their trains nowadays. I've bought three of the gold boxes myself which hold about 30-40 wagons all up, depending on size. In an apartment where I'm already short on space, this has allowed me to get them out of a cumbersome removal carton and into a cupboard.

I'm a fan of them, but my only gripe is this:


Small pieces of detail such as brake wheels which can get caught on the side walls of the foam during storage and removal, and which sit in the bottom of the box gazing tauntingly up at you after you've just coaxed a wagon out of an already snug fit, ruining the next five minutes of the half an hour you have to yourself to run trains.

Ugh!

I recently learned of another modeller who had lined all of his Auscision storage boxes with Glad Go-Between to remove this problem, so I thought I'd give it a go too. The film is similar to the plastic wrap most RTR models come in these days, if maybe a little smoother.


It's relatively easy to install and each box took about 15-20 minutes to remove the wagons, fit the go-between and replace.



So far, so good. I've found this has improved storage and removal particularly for my more complicated detail-intensive wheat and cement wagons.

Hope it helps someone!

Til next time,
Ben


Monday, 5 February 2018

Getting back to it

Finally, uni's done and I have free time again. I've found myself at home today with a violent case of man flu, and little energy. A perfect day to put on the 17-hour version of SBS's slow TV 'The Ghan' and have a go at some 1:1 track planning.

Just briefly on 'The Ghan,' it's had mixed reviews and there seems to be few people who are middle-of-the-road about it. I actually find it quite relaxing. The idea of slow TV isn't to be something you sit rivetted to waiting for the next bolt of excitement, but instead something to have on in the background as a pleasant filler. Even though I'm doing other things with it trundling along, I'm not even halfway through and I find it difficult to turn off! Would be interesting to see if they could do the Indian Pacific, particularly for the driver's eye view of the section over the Blue Mountains. I digress...


In my last post I talked about building another layout this year, and that I was keen for something where I could run some some electric stock, but particularly the V set interurban. What happened in just about every waking minute since December 2017 and today can be best explained thus: 

With a lack of space where I currently live, you can surmise where the answer consistently fell. ...Which is how I got onto designing another shelf layout.


This one is roughly based on Sandown, NSW and would measure 1.5m by 0.4m, using Micro Engineering code 70 track. The bottom left would be a short, brick-faced platform for worker's trains, the top left would be a milk siding, then continuing clockwise around the photo, a loading shed, headshunt, and cement siding with a level crossing. The cement siding would extend into a small, fold-up pocket off the layout. The existing staging I have for Rozelle Street would attach to the left-hand side. All up it would give me an excuse to run passenger stock, a fresh canvas to try my hand at overhead wiring in a small space, somewhere to shunt, and more operations than my current layout.

One advantage Rozelle Street has over this design is in it's 'instant on' - where I can turn up and move a train around without having to drag out the staging and get wagons and locos out of their storage boxes. Clearly, this design doesn't meet that requirement. I may shrink the size even further to get a proper micro layout plan with self-contained staging, in a similar fashion to that of Chris Nevard's smaller designs.


I did discover though that my Micro Engineering #6 turnouts' frog flangeway is too shallow for all of my locos (X200, 73, 48). Doing some research around the forums, I found that this is apparently normal for these turnouts but can be resolved by gently filing the frogs a bit deeper. I suppose I've been spoilt by Peco for so long, but it was a tad disappointing for what is heralded as the duck's guts of pre-manufactured turnouts. 


On the actual modelling side, I've finally started to assemble MFA 2706. This is the one car I have most bits and pieces for and makes sense as the first cab off the rank. I've never been a fan of the Hawksmoor 72'6 car underframes due to one end always warping, so I may cannibalise a LIMA carriage for it's sturdier underframe. Eureka Models is releasing complete underframes with bogies from it's new 72'6 car run, however they will have four rows of truss rigging underneath, whereas this car has two. I suppose it's a case of how much effort I want to go to for the end result. More photos as the build continues.

Anyways, that's it for now.

Cheers,
Ben


Thursday, 14 December 2017

I’m never studying again

I'm sure many of us have uttered this phrase. This is the third time I've said it, but this time - this time - once uni is out of the way in March, 2018 will be free for modelling. At least that's the plan!

I've said earlier in these pages that I think Rozelle Street has run it's course for me for now, and so aside from actually finishing the wagons I said I'd weather this year, I'd like to have a go at another small layout, hopefully one with a continuous run or at least the ability to take on a continuous run in future. For now, it still provides me with a layout that fits with a lifestyle where I can comfortably fit 30 minutes or so to run trains when I have spare time. It's also a great photo backdrop for the few models that do make it off the workbench!


Thanks for your comments on this blog throughout the year. I've appreciated the feedback, particularly at the Malkara exhibition. I hope the methods and ideas have helped and inspired!

Aside from another layout, the electric loco fleet is set to grow in 2018 when the Auscision 85 class arrives, and the sound-equipped Auscision 48 and SDS 81 class are both due before the middle of the year too. Clearly, I need a bigger layout. I'm also putting it in black and smudge right now that next year is the year I finish the supplementary interurban MUB set I've been steadily accumulating parts for for the last three years. 

For now, notch back and coast past the home signal for Christmas.


Cheers,
Ben

Friday, 6 October 2017

Liverpool Exhibition and more weathering

I've been going to the Liverpool Exhibition with my brother and granddad for around 25 years this year, so it was nice to be able to do that again as a family this year. You never know how long you've got together, so it's nice to do something we enjoy.

Almost as soon as you walked in the door this year was this great little layout by IDR Models proprietor Ian Ratcliffe. I'm not sure of the curve radius off to the staging, but the whole main portion of layout can't be much bigger in length than Rozelle Street's 1.4 metres. It's good to see another small, Australian-prototype layout showing that you don't need a stack of space to have an interesting and entertaining layout.


Although obligatory, a look in the Auscision cabinet didn't disappoint. I've opted for sound in my 48 class when it arrives, and I'm really looking forward to shunting with it. Delivery will be in late December or early January they reckon.



Geoff Small's "Mullet Creek" was back out again this year running around a lot more of the recently-released and modern rollingstock than in previous outings. Not being able to run my own V set in a continuous loop, you will completely understand when I say that I came back to this layout a few times on the day.


After the show I headed to my brother's place to help him with wiring up his layout. It's set in the mid-to-late 1960s and is based on a "what if" line over the Blue Mountains to the Central West and represents a mid-mountains junction station on that line, with a branch to Bilpin. Electrification ends to the west of the junction, so there's also a few engine change moves which allow for running steam, diesel and electric locos. Off to each side are 'city' and 'country staging yards, with the loop allowing for simply running a train around on those days when you just need to watch some wheels turn. After some fairly simple but time-consuming preparatory work, we had trains running by about 10.30pm. I'm looking forward to seeing this one evolve too, but that's another story.



Back at home on the public holiday I played around with some weathering effects using a simple brown acrylic paint weathering wash. Below is the before and after on some RACE containers. By the late 70s these containers were both faded and dirty, which is a skill I need a little more practice on before I'm completely happy with it. Still, it's better than the out-of-the-box plastic look!



I also had a go at an SDS models LRC RACE container. By my era there was a definite orange hue to the weathering of these wagons, so I still need to play around with that one a little more. I'm fairly happy with the rain-soaked effect for now though.



A bigger job on the cards is weathering up five FWHs to run with a few of the WHXs as a mill wheat train. I thought I'd experiment with this one first and add just a few coats of brown wash. In this instance I used an 80/20-ish mix of brown acrylic paint and isocol rubbing alcohol (rather than 100% isopropyl) without a dullcote layer sprayed on beforehand. I found that the paint mixture would start to mottle the model's original coat and create a streaking effect that I wasn't completely happy with. The phone camera photo below doesn't show it up particularly well, but I've left it for now to see what it looks like with fresh eyes this weekend.


For now though, all of these little steps help build the overall scene to make a convincing model.


Til next time.

Cheers,
Ben


Monday, 25 September 2017

Weathering PRX cement hoppers

Today I've used the extra day offered by a public holiday to tackle a job I've been putting off for ages - PRX weathering. 

I had bought a pack of Southern Rail Models' PRXs a few years ago not long before SDS models released theirs. The SDS version are to my eyes at least a better model. So for me the SRM ones are guinea pigs for experimenting with weathering techniques and will eventually end up sold on eBay or swapped with other modellers for more wagons I can't live without. I was really happy with the crushed pastel crayon technique I used on the PCC hoppers a few years ago, but I wanted to see if thinned acrylic paint will give the same subtle look I'm after for wagons that will have only been in service for about a year.

After first applying dullcote to all of the PRXs, I painted Tamiya Grit Effect Light Sand in small blobs around the domes, and coated it in a dark grey and then a smaller area in medium grey to give the texture and effect of dried cement that tends to cake on the top of these wagons. I did this about a year ago, but you could do this part of the process on a Friday night and be ready to do the rest by Sunday.

Next, I mixed together a few drops of Tamiya acrylic thinner, some XF-20 medium grey and about 20-30ml of water to make a thin grey consistency. I applied this with a soft-bristled brush, first liberally coating it and then dragging it down with the brush in streaks. The pictures speak for themselves - this worked better in some places than others... In future I would probably thin this even further and apply in much lighter layers.

I also gave a quick brush of the mixture over the bogies and visible parts of the underframe.


Not being afraid of wrecking these wagons, I went a little stronger with the tone and amount of paint than I really want for my era, but they still fit the bill for very late 70's/early 1980s first-contract run of these hoppers. I was actually surprised how much better they look on the layout under lights and running around!






In the time that it's taken me to write this post I've agreed to offload these two to a mate in exchange for two new, clean SRM NPRYs. Guess I won't have to worry about a market for these wagons when I eventually finish weathering all four!


I look forward to having another go and playing around with the technique, but I'm fairly happy with this as a first go.

'Til next time, cheers.

Ben